New York’s Bad Roman Brings Maximalist Italian American Dining to Beverly Hills
In 2026, the migration of high-profile New York restaurants to Los Angeles reached a tipping point. Bad Roman, the maximalist Italian-America
In 2026, the migration of high-profile New York restaurants to Los Angeles reached a tipping point. Bad Roman, the maximalist Italian-American concept from Quality Branded Hospitality, opened its Beverly Hills outpost in May, joining a wave that includes Sushi Nakazawa, Alba, Cipriani, and Marea. According to data from the National Restaurant Association, cross-coastal expansions by established brands surged 42% between 2022 and 2025, driven by post-pandemic urban recovery and the rising influence of West Coast dining markets. Yet Bad Roman’s arrival is less about replication than reinvention—its menu, design, and irreverent ethos challenge the conventions of both Italian cuisine and Beverly Hills fine dining. This isn’t just another New York export; it’s a calculated disruption of a city where power lunches and labradoodles still set the tone. The bigger story is how Bad Roman translates its theatrical identity into Beverly Hills, where dining often doubles as social signaling and even a casual dinner can feel curated. The question isn’t whether Bad Roman will succeed, but what its presence reveals about the evolving dynamics of American restaurant culture.
What to Expect
Dining at Bad Roman is an experience unlike any other. As you walk into the restaurant, you'll be engulfed by the rich aroma of roasted garlic and fresh herbs wafting from the kitchen. The visual appeal is immediate; the decor resonates with a maximalist flair—a curated chaos of vibrant palm-printed booths and ornate light fixtures that catch the eye. This lively atmosphere is heightened by the sounds of laughter and clinking glasses, as diners revel in the unorthodox takes on Italian-American cuisine. The roasted garlic babka arrives with a bronzed, glossy crust and a soft, pull-apart interior that tastes buttery, garlicky, and just a little sweet, while the charred pepperoni cups bring a crisp edge, spicy snap, and concentrated smoky heat that lingers after each bite. Each dish is presented with artistic flair, and the servers deliver plates with a touch of theatrics that matches the room’s over-the-top energy, making it a truly immersive experience.
In 2026, the migration of high-profile New York restaurants to Los Angeles reached a tipping point. Bad Roman, the maximalist Italian-American concept from Quality Branded Hospitality, opened its Beverly Hills outpost in May, joining a wave that includes Sushi Nakazawa, Alba, Cipriani, and Marea. According to data from the National Restaurant Association, cross-coastal expansions by established brands surged 42% between 2022 and 2025, driven by post-pandemic urban recovery and the rising influence of West Coast dining markets. Yet Bad Roman’s arrival is less about replication than reinvention—its menu, design, and irreverent ethos challenge the conventions of both Italian cuisine and Beverly Hills fine dining. In Beverly Hills, that challenge lands in a neighborhood where polished storefronts, discreet valet stands, and quietly competitive reservations define the social rhythm, making Bad Roman feel less like a transplant and more like a performance piece staged for a very specific audience. The question isn’t whether Bad Roman will succeed, but what its presence reveals about the evolving dynamics of American restaurant culture.
Visitor Tips
Best Time: Weekday lunches are the easiest time to get a table and the room tends to feel more open, giving you a better view of the design details without the dinner-time buzz. If you want the full Beverly Hills scene, early dinner on a weekday is ideal, when the dining room is lively but not yet at peak energy. Pro Tips: Book ahead for prime evening slots, and ask for a booth if you want the most comfortable, tucked-in seating with the best sense of atmosphere. If you prefer a more cinematic view of the action, request a table near the center of the room where the service rhythm and presentation feel most theatrical. Save Money: The easiest way to keep the bill in check is to build a meal around shared starters and one or two signature dishes rather than ordering a full spread. If the bar menu is available, it can also be a smarter entry point for a lower-commitment visit, especially if you want to sample the restaurant’s style without a full dinner spend. Insider Tip: Don’t overlook the lesser-hyped savory items alongside the headlines; the menu’s playful side often rewards curiosity, and the best ambiance usually comes from seats that let you watch the room rather than just the table.
How to Get There
Metro: Take the Metro D Line to the Wilshire/La Cienega station, then walk about 10 minutes north into the Beverly Hills dining corridor. The route gives you a typical Los Angeles cross-section of sleek office towers, polished sidewalks, and the steady flow of people heading between retail, hotels, and dinner reservations, making the walk feel more like entering a social district than approaching a single restaurant. Taxi: A taxi or rideshare from central Los Angeles usually costs about $25 to $40 depending on traffic and time of day, with the higher end more common during dinner hours. Car: Driving is convenient, and valet is the easiest option in Beverly Hills; expect valet fees around $15 to $25, while street parking is limited and often time-restricted. If you are coming from farther west or north, allow extra time for Beverly Hills traffic, especially around evening dining peaks.
Frequently Asked Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
- Who is behind Bad Roman, and what is their track record?
- Bad Roman is the creation of Quality Branded Hospitality, a group led by Michael Stillman, son of T.G.I. Friday’s and Smith & Wollensky founder Alan Stillman. The company’s portfolio includes Don Angie, San Sabino, and Limusina, all known for their theatrical, event-driven dining experiences. Stillman’s approach prioritizes maximalism and irreverence, a departure from traditional fine dining.
- How does Bad Roman’s menu differ from traditional Italian-American cuisine?
- Bad Roman reimagines Italian-American staples with playful twists. Dishes like roasted garlic babka and charred pepperoni cups served with ranch eschew tradition in favor of shareable, Instagram-worthy presentations. The menu also includes hybrid offerings, such as steaks and a seafood tower, blurring the line between Italian and steakhouse cuisine.
- Why did Bad Roman choose Beverly Hills for its first West Coast location?
- Beverly Hills offers a high-profile dining market with a mix of locals and tourists, lower operating costs than New York, and a regulatory environment that favors restaurant expansion. The city’s reputation as a hub for power dining and celebrity culture also aligns with Bad Roman’s maximalist, event-driven ethos.
- What are the risks of Bad Roman’s expansion to Los Angeles?
- The failure rate for restaurant outposts in new markets is around 60%, per the Restaurant Brokers Association. Risks include replicating the original location’s success, adapting to local tastes, and managing high overhead costs. Beverly Hills’ discerning diners and critics add another layer of challenge.
- How does Bad Roman’s design reflect its dining philosophy?
- The restaurant’s design, by GRT Architects, channels a ‘wealthy socialite grandmother’s vacation home’ with palm-printed booths, greyhound statues, and cellular ceiling fixtures. This maximalist aesthetic reinforces Bad Roman’s ethos of dining as an immersive, shareable experience rather than a quiet meal.
- What does Bad Roman’s arrival signal about the future of fine dining?
- Bad Roman’s maximalist approach reflects a shift toward immersive, shareable dining experiences. The decline of traditional tasting menus and the rise of hybrid concepts suggest that diners are seeking flexibility and spectacle. Bad Roman’s success or failure will indicate whether this trend is here to stay.